Day 4: Meyersberg PA-Cumberland MD

First of all, Tony has failed to mention the $5 fee for whining, subject to rebate if confirmed by a doctor. Secondly, he has confessed to enjoying the ride. Pain = Pleasure?
I realize now that I am tasked with telling you How nice the trail is, while Tony's job is to explain how I am the dark taskmaster. So be it.

Last night we stayed in a very comfortable and hospitable B&B, the Levi Deal Mansion in Meyersberg. Highly recommended for anyone in the area. We were received with a warm welcome and drinks, given dining advice, found a spacious and comfortable room, and provided a delicious, filling, and interesting breakfast. Our hosts Jan and Mike were very gracious.

After a quick zip around town, we set off with Bob toward the Eastern Continental Divide. Rainfall to the west eventually runs to the Ohio river, Mississippi, and Gulf of Mexico. Rain to the east heads to the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic.

We biked through three tunnels today. The longest one, the Big Savage tunnel, was 1900 feet long, straight, and lit. The other two were shorter, unlit, and spookier. Even with headlamps, you don't see much. You just head for the light at the end of the tunnel while staying in the center.  Steering is sort of based on peripheral vision.

Beyond the continental divide, we enjoyed a terrific long (25 mile) downhill through Frostburg and on to Cumberland. It wasn't quite steep enough to just coast, but you could pedal (15-17 mph) and coast for awhile before pedalling some more. This was in distinct contrast to the uphill of the past four days when not pedaling was not an option.

Along the way we saw lots of bikers heading the other way. Our strong headwind was their tailwind. One couple we first saw in Frostburg came from NYC, but had lived for many years in my hometown of Ardsley. We compared notes about neighbors, teachers, etc. We ran into them several more times today, right up to going to dinner at the same restaurant.
Tonight we said goodbye to Bob, who is heading to DC with some misgivings. Fortunately we were able to hook him up with a woman who somehow got our room at the B&B at which we had reservations. Her husband is SAGging for her, which means he carries her stuff in the car and meets her at the end of the day. Unfortunately, she's been biking a lot faster than Bob, thanks to a faster bike and no luggage. We're eager to hear how that partnership works out.

Our arrival in Cumberland was inauspicious. First the B&B was locked. No answer at their phone, but the owner's cell phone number was on the message. No answer there either. Plan B was to stay where Bob had told us he'd found a room, at the Fairfield Inn. They were full. Plan C: Holiday Inn. Got the last non-smoking two bed room there. Train-side!!! Half an hour 'til dinner. Both of us showered and made it right on time. While I was showering the innkeeper called to unapologeticly explain that she had emailed me a confirmation three days ago and I had failed to respond, so of course she cancelled my reservation! Chalk this up to travel adventures.

Tomorrow we reverse course, ascending the hills and beginning our return to Pittsburgh. We've read the kiosks already, so perhaps we'll spend more time on the return trip admiring the scenery. Also, we're staying in different towns along the way, chosen for an even 40-45 miles per day.

- Jim